Trattoria La Sirena di Mancuso, Messina
Trattoria la Sirena di Mancuso is located on side of one of the two seawater lakes in Ganzirri, along the coast just north of Messina. This place is a local institution, a temple of tradition, pure and simple. This is where the locals will direct you to try mussels. This is where I myself first tried mussels in Ganzirri. And little seems to have changed since then.
What’s the place like?
The geographical location of Trattoria la Sirena di Mancuso is beautiful, as seen in the photo above. The restaurant itself almost completely lacks the charm of the setting, and has the bright, aggressive lighting you might find in a department store or a dentist’s waiting room. The walls were white and bare, so bare that I would even have preferred a half hearted attempt at seaside trattoria kitsch. Maybe a few nets, stuffed swordfish and seascapes on the walls. This was not going to win an interior design prize.
The fact that it however took three attempts to book a table is no doubt indicative, however: people come here for the food, not the decor, and they come here in large numbers.
Is the food at Trattoria La Sirena di Mancuso any good?
The menu is what you would expect from a traditional seafood restaurant in north-east Sicily, with a couple of pleasant surprises, and one unpleasant one. Let’s get the disappointment out of the way. Although listed on the menu at €60/kg (in line with current prices), there were no whole fish, such as sea bass, gilt-headed bream, mullet, etc. This is a shame, since I was in the mood for a simple grilled whole fish. Pazienza, as they say, that’s life.
Anyway, back to the rest of the menu. Starters included such local classics as franceshini, deep fried tiny squid, some leftovers from the 90s (or earlier), such as prawn cocktail, smoked swordfish and smoked salmon, and seafood salad. They also had raw fish, and although not actually on the menu, I managed to get a mixed platter. This included tuna, swordfish, prawns and what is known locally as aguglia imperiale (spearfish in English, a Mediterranean species of marlin). It was excellent – clean-tasting and melt-in-the-mouth, especially the almost buttery, sweet prawns.
Antipasti
Then of course, there were mussels, the local speciality, from the seawater lake. These come in three versions: simply boiled; with pepper, oil and parsley; or alla marinara, with a rich tomato and garlic sauce. We tried both pepate and alla marinara, and they were superb – fresh, fat, juicy and tasty. The antipasti at Trattoria La Sirena di Mancuso averaged about €12, which was very reasonable.
Pasta and risotto
Pasta dishes also reflected classic tastes, being served with mussels, clams, or prawns, individually or together in a pescatora sauce, and, in another nod to the 90s, with salmon. A couple of risottos (pescatora or salmon) were also available. Also here, €12 seemed to be the favourite price. We tried spaghetti alle vongole and pennette ai gamberi,
Main courses
As for the main courses, these included stuffed fish rolls, involtini, of swordfish, scabbard fish or spearfish, grilled swordfish steaks and stuffed squid. As with the antipasti and primi, the prices averaged an extremely attractive €12. I went for the squid, which were small, tender, and perfectly cooked. Alongside, came a sauce boat filled with freshly-made salmoriglio, the local dressing of lemon juice, olive oil and parsley.
Desserts
The dessert selection comprises only fresh fruit and ice-creams, but the almond semifreddo with chocolate sauce was rich and creamy, and – a rarity – served at just the right temperature, so that it yielded to the spoon without being overly soft.
What about the wines?
No surprises here, with a fairly limited list of mainly Sicilian white wines from a few of the best-known producers (Corvo, Regaleali, Milazzo, Firriato). These ranged from €15 to €29, with most priced around €20. A couple of reds were also on offer, with the most expensive coming in at €39. The selection is dependable but uninspiring, with some glaring absences. There should surely have been some Faro wines, for example, from the DOC zone within which the restaurant is located. It’s good to see them champion Sicilian wines, but very disappointing that they shun those from their own backyard.
Highlights
The raw fish platter, and the mussels, on which Mancuso’s fame is based, were excellent. The service – attentive and friendly – also deserves a mention. This, however, is not so much a place you come for highlights as a highly dependable restaurant offering well-executed, simple food across the board. There is little in the way of creativity, but if you want classic food, this is the place to come. And provided you are only interested in the food, and not atmosphere. I wouldn’t recommend it for a first date, for example. Not unless you’re aiming to avoid a second one, of course.
Trattoria La Sirena di Mancuso – worth it?
As mentioned, the prices are very reasonable, and two people opting for two courses each and sharing a bottle of wine could expect change from €80. Considering solely the food and wine, excellent value for money.
Overall score
Trattoria La Sirena di Mancuso has to be worth 7/10: a solid performance as far as it goes, but lacking imagination in all sectors – menu, wine list and decor.
