L’apparenza inganna, as they say here in Italy – appearances can be deceptive. Today’s offering, pasta ‘ncaciata, is a case in point. I mean, just look at it – rigatoni and cheese with a crispy crust. This is the sort of pasta dish you wouldn’t mind introducing to your parents. Reassuring, well-behaved, understated even. It’s not exactly a featherweight prawn salad, but neither does it look likely to beat you up and put you out of action for 24 hours. This, of course, is where you would be wrong. Prise off its pretty golden wrapping, and underneath you will find the Mike Tyson of the pasta universe. Pasta ‘ncaciata is…