What better way to celebrate the tuna season than with one of my favourite dishes, Sicilian tuna tartare. Unlike the indulgence, length and fervour of spaghetti with cuttlefish ink sauce, today’s offering is almost Buddhist in its simplicity, not that Buddhists probably get through boatloads of raw tuna. Expect it would wreak havoc with their karma. Not with mine, I’m glad to report. To say this is old-school Sicilian would be a lie. A modern classic maybe, insofar as that actually means anything. It only started popping up on menus here about five or ten years ago, although now any decent fish restaurant will offer it. Strangely, though, it’s not…